My build is starting to look much more "T-50ish" now๐ The vertical stabilizers are dry fit for now and won't be glued on til later on in the build to make installing servos on the bottom easier. In this current state with no gear, sanded, it weighs 177 gr/6.2 gr which is about what most of my planes weigh at this point.
I decided to make the nacelles a bit more scale and lowered them somewhat. I measured what they would be on the T-50 V1 (which has a 24" wingspan), then converted that number to what it would be on a plane with a 27" wingspan and ended up trimming 7 mm off where it meets the wing plate and also made the rudder less wide as well. I know you wouldn't know the difference in this picture, but it does lower the profile of the plane considerably.
I remember when we were testing the NAMC Mig-FA which is a concept design my former NAMC partner Stephan designed, the nacelles were similar in depth to what was on the Mig-35, our first plane. As we dialed down on more "scalish" looks since it was loosely based on the T-50, when we lowered the nacelles, the plane was faster, more efficient and much quicker in the pitch and roll as the vertical profile had been reduced considerably.
Perhaps because I lowered the nacelles down, when I dry fit the motor with prop attached, it was hitting the bottom of the nacelle. I had to trim quite a bit off to give the prop clearance. Starting where the pen is pointing in this picture, I trimmed forward about 1 and 1/4" along the outside, just angling in towards the inner part at an angle so as not reduce any strength and structure around the motor mount area.
To taper the leading edge of my wing and LERX, I draw a line about 3/8" back from the squared leading edge and then use this as a guide to trim the foam off before sanding. Bottom.
Top
I have always done a bit of a "sharp edge" on the leading edge of the wing with the KFs. I have read and heard arguments that this leading edge should be rounded, and maybe I'll try that sometime and see if it makes a difference, but I have done it this way with dozens of plans, so perhaps a case of stubbornness on my part or "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"๐
Finished product, I know it is hard to see with everything being white, but it is smooth and sleek now๐
Holes are cut out for the servos and I have also cut a relief out of the bottom KF so that the elevon and aileron servos can be installed easily. In the first picture, from left to right will be the aileron, elevon and rudder servos (same on the other side of the plane)
This relief is cut about 3/4" inch away from the nacelle to allow the servos to be installed easily and also allows for the "flanges" on the aileron servo in the front.
Still a bit more fussy work to do, I will apply the oil-based Minwax to the paper on the bottom of the plane and let it dry overnight, then paint the sides of the nacelles, install all the servos and pushrods so that all the work on the bottom of the plane will be done. Once that is done, flip it over, glue on the vertical stabilizers and then treat the paper on the top of the plane and ensure that is completely dry before painting the rest of the plane, installing the motor and it should be ready to "slip the surly bonds of earth"๐
Park Jet noise...the "other" sound of freedom๐
Cheers,
Scott
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