There are several ways to cut out the parts for a foam RC plane. Some folks will use the plans to make templates that they trace around on the foam. These can be made with inexpensive poster board and then recycled as many times as you want to build the plane.
I temporarily glue the plans to the foam, cut out the parts and then peel the plans from the foam. I use this glue that holds the plans firm, but doesn't permanently fix the plans to the foam. I know people also tape the plans down, whatever works for you or you find easiest.😊
I like to cut the parts out of the main sheet of the plans after printing them off, then place them on my foam in a way that works for me and reduces the wasted foam. I find it much easier to handle and place these smaller pieces of paper rather than trying to place a large sheet which can cause issues with wrinkling, etc. To build this plane, you will want two sheets of the 20"x30" Dollar Tree foam (DTF).
If you have never built with DTF before, I shot this video with all my lessons learned having built with DTF for over two years now. If you watch the video on You Tube, you can go to the video description and find links to blog posts I wrote discussing my journey building with DTF.
Once I have my parts laid out on the full sheet of foam, I like to cut this sheet down into more manageable parts so that they are easier to handle and allow me to orient the foam so I get the best quality cuts.
Before going any further, I will mention that it is important to be patient when cutting out the parts, ensure you go over the plans for any instructions or marks you need to make before taking the plans off the foam. If you forget to mark something that is important later in the build, it can be difficult to do once the plans have been removed, especially if you have thrown them away😕
Also, take your time, don't try to cut through the DTF in one cut, sometimes you need to lightly score the foam and then go back over it another time or two to get clean cuts. Since you are cutting through two (or three if you are cutting through the plans also) layers of paper and the foam, it can dull your knife quickly. Either change your blade or sharpen it as soon as you feel the blade pulling on the foam rather than cutting or you will tear the foam and end up with ragged edges.
You will note that on some parts, there are two required (elevons, vertical stabilizers, landing skids, KF airfoils). There are a couple of ways you can cut these out. You can use one that you cut out and trace around it to cut out the second, or if you use the method that I do, you can carefully peel the plans off the piece you just cut out and recycle it to cut out the second piece.
On the fuselage and the top nose panel, you will note the checkerboard areas where that foam will be removed, but paper left behind. Carefully remove this foam to leave paper behind.
On the larger fuselage piece, I find it easier to crack the foam and then carefully using my thumbnail remove the section of foam, leaving the paper behind. Picture below shows that the seam on both sides of the foam to be removed has been cracked, then the foam can be more easily removed.
Here are the parts above with all the foam removed and paper left behind.
On the score lines, I like to use something where I can crease the paper and foam gently through the plans so that the foam will bend the way I want. If you do not crease the foam slightly, when you go to bend the foam, it will bend wherever it wants to, not necessarily where it should.
To mark the CG (centre of gravity) which is very critical to being able to properly balance the plane for flying, I use a pin and poke it through the foam, ensuring the hole is big enough that I can see it afterwards, especially if I am going to paint the plane.
To make the motor mount, you can use thin wood, plastic gift cards, etc. Again, I glue the paper to the wood, then cut it out. In this case I used some small pine wood pieces I got from a craft store. Then ensure you drill out the center hole to allow the motor shaft to spin freely and the holes to accept the motor bolts to secure the motor later on.
If you want ideas on how to make your motor mount from old plastic gift cards, this video might give you some ideas.
With the plans still on the foam, also ensure you poke a hole through where the bamboo skewer will go to support the hatch for the electronics bay. I find it easiest to gently push the sharp end of a bamboo skewer through using a slight twisting motion.
I gently pressed down on the foam to mark where my control horn will go, ensure you lay out your elevons so that you mark them correctly and don't accidentally mark the same side on both of them. The elevon control horn will be mounted on the top of the elevon.
Please note in the last picture I have now marked that small groove with a pen so that I will know where to put my control horn.
As mentioned earlier, carefully go over each part to ensure you have marked or creased important lines that will be important later in the build😊
Next up, part 3, prepping the parts for assembly including treating the foam to make it waterproof.💦
Cheers,
Scott
#ParkJetnoise
#ParkJetpilot
#GCRCF22MiniV3
Great tips on the prep, cutting out the parts, and marking needed areas.
ReplyDelete